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Deirdre Fleming

I report on Maine's outdoor people and places for the Portland Press Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram, and spend as much time in these wild lands as I can.

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Posted: April 15, 2019

Low’s is Buxton’s go-to for food to go

Written by: Deirdre Fleming

Low’s Variety in Buxton is on the corner of routes 112 and 22. It offers an array of hot and cold sandwiches and features a pizza special two days a week. Staff photos by Deirdre Fleming

Where it’s located along a major commuter route to Portland, Low’s Variety often has a busy take-out buzz about it in the the afternoon. So I decided to try a dinner on the run at this local eatery. The order of mozzarella sticks and a cheese-and-steak sub scored well in a few regards. But the pizza’s the thing at this local eatery. So I returned another day for a slice. And with that, Low’s score soared.

Let’s start by saying, I give high marks for good customer service – and if that exceptional service is delivered by teenagers, all the better. The young man and two young women who took my order and made my first meal were friendly, polite and helpful. Even the young man clocking out for the evening jumped in to answer my questions. It’s a nice vibe to soak in at an eatery that’s been family- owned for 45 years.

Interior of Low’s Variety in Buxton.

Low’s offers all manner of cold and hot sandwiches, from burgers ($3.99 to $7.49), a grilled chicken wrap ($6.99) and meatball parmigiana ($4.99 to $7.99) to an assortment of Italian sandwiches. It also has several specialties: such as the buffalo chicken pizza club ($6.99), the Mega Meat Club ($8.99) and the the Cowboy burger ($4.99 to $6.99), which includes cheese, slices of onion rings and honey barbecue sauce.

The steak-and-cheese sub from Low’s Variety is loaded with steak.

The 6-inch steak-and-cheese with onions and green peppers ($4.59) was not greasy and loaded with meat –so more than satisfactory. There wasn’t enough cheese for my taste, and I would have liked mayo – but shame on me for not asking. All in all, not bad for under $5.

That’s the bottom line here. Nothing is fancy or gourmet; but the prices are beyond reasonable.

The mozzarella sticks ($3.99) were average, although not my first choice. That was the pub fries, which Low’s sold out of by 4 p.m., giving me the feeling I missed out on something special. There are several kinds here: seasoned curly, seasoned waffle, and sweet potato – which run from $2.29 to $4.99.

As for the pizza, you really can’t say you tried the food at Low’s unless you try a slice. Every Wednesday and Thursday, it’s the special; it says so on the sign out front: Two large one-topping pies for $18.99. A colleague at work looking at my menu exclaimed with surprise when he saw that.

But would Low’s pie impress this New York City pizza snob? In fac, it took me right back to high school: Juicy, cheesy and loaded with tomato sauce that tastes homemade.

For $2.50, how can you get a better snack after a paddle in the nearby Saco River?

Low’s Variety

WHERE: 115 Main St., Buxton (one of three locations)
INFO: (207) 929-8900
HOURS: 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Saturday
WAIT: 10 minutes
PARKING: Lot in front
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No

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