The only thing I really don’t like about Biscuits & Co. is that it’s not in Portland.
But if you don’t live in Biddeford, it’s worth the 20-minute drive from Portland – or a quick stop on your way through town – to stop by and sample this little shop’s breakfast and lunch fare. Breakfast lovers, especially, will find a lot to enjoy here. And you can get a hearty meal, with coffee, for under $10.
We first wrote about Biscuits & Co. almost exactly a year ago, when the owner, Stacy Cooper, was competing in Biddeford’s Main Street Challenge, a local competition that helps entrepreneurs open their own businesses and revitalize downtown. She won and since then has not only opened her business but added staff as well, including a former member of the Scratch Baking Co. team in South Portland.
Customers place their orders at a counter in front of the open kitchen, next to a case filled with goodies like banana nut muffins, oatmeal toffee cookies, cheddar chive scones and housemade granola. But it’s the big ole biscuits that are the stars here. Soft on the inside, crunchy (but not too hard) on the outside, the huge biscuits are the template for the Biscuits & Co. menu. The “Big Breakfast Sandwich” ($6.95) is made with egg, cheese, mixed greens and housemade sweet red pepper relish. Add bacon or ham for $3 extra.
There are stripped-down versions of the breakfast sandwich available as well, such as a simple egg and cheese for $4.95; ham or bacon, egg and cheese for $7.95; and butter and jam for $3.
Lunch options include a Moxie BBQ Pulled Pork sandwich ($8.95), made with slow-roasted pork and housemade Moxie BBQ sauce and topped with slaw and a housemade pickle. There’s a ham sandwich and, of course, a Chicken on a Biscuit that you can have made to order with your choice or gravy, cheese and braised greens, or avocado and tomato ($7.95). The soup of the day when I visited was white bean and kale.
The menu is always changing and includes vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. A recent meat lovers’ addition was bacon-wrapped meatloaf with red-eye gravy and garlic smashed potatoes.
I had sampled one of the sandwiches before, so on this visit I decided to splurge and ordered the Biscuits & Gravy. It’s a decadent, guilt-inducing dish that is one of those things you shouldn’t eat often, so when you do, make sure it’s a good version. The housemade pork sausage gravy poured over the two halves of the biscuit was flavorful and just the right consistency. (Too often sausage gravy turns out a little too greasy. Or, in their zeal to thicken it, cooks add so much flour it comes out a gummy mess.) I kicked it up a notch by ordering an over-easy egg to go on top.
I like the fact that Biscuits & Co. lets vegetarians in on this deliciousness as well. They can order the same dish but with a vegan wild mushroom gravy instead of the sausage version.
And if the sausage gravy isn’t enough for you, you can order “Pop’s Cure”: Biscuits & Gravy topped with two over-easy eggs and bacon for $11.95. Better schedule a doctor’s appointment after this one.
If you fall in love with these biscuits, as I suspect you will, you also can bring them home and pop them in your freezer. They are $1.50 a piece.
Painted on one of the restaurant’s walls are words from an essay about biscuits by food writer Laurie Colwin. One excerpt sums up Biscuits & Co.:
“You can use biscuits for shortcake or pie crust, or pile them up with peaches and make a sweet biscuit pizza. You can make them big and flat or small and puffy. It doesn’t matter: biscuits are always wonderful.”
WHERE: 25 Alfred St., Biddeford; 207-710-2333; facebook.com/biscuitsandcompany
HOURS: 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday
WAIT: 5 minutes on a mid-morning weekday
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No