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Restaurant & Bar Guide

Tipo

Tipo information

// Location182 Ocean Ave
Portland, ME 04101

// Hours 4 to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

// Contact207-358-7970
Website

// Price Range$$$

// Cuisine Type Italian,

// Features

// Reviews

⇢ Chris Gould's latest, the Italian off-peninsula Tipo, earns a tip of the hat

043017 Tipo

// AT A GLANCE
Tipo, a new Italian restaurant in Portland’s Back Cove neighborhood, has a lot going for it – not least of which is the considerable expertise of its chef/owner Chris Gould, who also runs the James Beard Award-nominated Central Provisions in the Old Port. Gould’s obsessive attention to detail and flair for creating intricate balance among layers of flavor are both on full display at Tipo, where he shares the kitchen with chef de cuisine Mike Smith (formerly of Scales). Among menu standouts are pastas like garganelli with a surprisingly complex and meaty braised lamb ragu, and square-cut, almost stucco-textured spaghetti chitarra (also available occasionally as squid ink spaghetti chitarra) with local clams, bottarga, and shards of crunchy breadcrumbs that shatter into tiny dynamite blasts of Calabrian chile and salt. Cocktails, like the sweet-and-sour, super-frothy Il Maglione, or the tart La Testa Rossa (“the redhead,” $10), with rhubarb-based amaro, cranberry bitters and grapefruit, are delightful either before or after dinner. But if you order nothing else at Tipo, be sure to try the pizza, baked in a Hephaestian wood-fired oven whose ceiling temperature tops out at over 1,000 degrees F. It’s here, on the most dangerous piece of equipment in the building (or perhaps the neighborhood) where Gould’s single-minded focus yields its greatest dividend: a perfectly blistered, crisp and char-marked crust – good enough to make even a Neapolitan jealous.