// Location349 Cumberland Ave.
Portland, ME 04101
// Hours11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday
// Contact(207) 773-1997
// Price Range$$
// Cuisine Type German,
// Features Brunch, Kid Friendly, Take Out,
// AT A GLANCE
Schulte & Herr, a cozy German restaurant in Portland’s West Bayside neighborhood, knows a thing or two about defying expectations. Since opening in 2011, it remains steadfastly without a liquor license. Co-owners Steffi Davin and her husband, chef Brian Davin, instead seem (for the moment, at least) content to pin their success on homey atmosphere and the remarkable quality of their food. Everything pivots around traditional German favorites, from unexpectedly crisp and light pork schnitzel to hearty sauerbraten – a slow-marinated, braised beef roast served with gravy that demands to be sopped up with buttery napkin dumplings or a slice of the restaurant’s homemade rye bread. Superbly executed, robust dishes like crisp, oniony potato pancakes with applesauce, and bratwurst with mild juniper-infused sauerkraut have probably helped make Schulte & Herr counter-cyclical, enjoying its busiest season in the winter, rather than the tourist-thronged summer. But muscular, cold-weather food is not the whole story: You’ll also find dishes like a slow-cooked onion custard tart with a light, crumbly pastry, and a vibrantly eclectic smoked trout salad at Schulte & Herr. It’s just a matter of time before the tourists figure that out.