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Restaurant & Bar Guide

Cheevitdee

Cheevitdee information

// Location363 Fore St.
Portland, ME 04101

// Hours 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

// Contact207-747-4795
Website

// Price Range$$$

// Cuisine Type Asian, Thai,

// Features

// Reviews

⇢ Cheevitdee aims to burnish health food's image, with mixed results

Cheevitdee

// AT A GLANCE
Portland’s Cheevitdee, which opened this April in an attractively renovated storefront on Fore Street, is a restaurant with a mission: to win diners over to its healthful reinterpretation of Thai cooking. Central to this undertaking, many dishes (and the restaurant’s logo) incorporate a new hybrid grain, riceberry, touted as a more wholesome alternative to jasmine rice. Chef/co-owner Jay Pranadsri uses riceberry to great effect in her ping ngob, a spicy, explosively herbal red salmon curry. Elsewhere, such as in the lackluster khao mun gai, it is not as successful. Happily, her sticky rice with mango ($8) dessert, served layered like a terrarium in a lowball glass, leaves the riceberry behind in favor of traditional (if bizarrely blue-tinted) sweet glutinous rice. For the most part, dishes at Cheevitdee taste like they have been engineered to be wholesome first and foremost, usually at the expense of flavor or texture. Still, a rare few, like pla goong – delightfully spicy, tangy shrimp bites served in individual spoons – actually do make good on the restaurant’s promise that healthy restaurant dining is compatible with exceptional flavor.