// Location747 Congress St.
Portland, ME 04101
// Hours5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
// Price Range$$$
// Cuisine Type Eclectic,
// Features Brunch, Great Cocktails,
// AT A GLANCE
The main dining room of Portland’s Bolster, Snow & Co. is so intimate that you can hear clearly each time executive chef Nick Verdisco announces, “Service, please,” to his front-of-house staff. That closeness breeds a conviviality among diners and servers alike. On a recent visit, when a glass broke at a table nearby, our server laughingly cried, “Opa!” as she set down a plate of pan-fried hake with cauliflower prepared three ways. Everyone in the room laughed, then unsurprisingly went back to focusing on their meals, which are generally excellent and showcase Verdisco’s skill at building structured, balanced flavor profiles. Don’t miss the pork terrine, served with an egg yolk gnocchi that Verdisco unabashedly cribbed from Los Angeles chef Michael Voltaggio. Also, make sure you don’t skip bread or dessert, both of which are made by rising-star pastry chef Sarah Miller. In particular, if there’s an éclair on the menu, order it; Miller’s choux pastry is out of this world.