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Carey Kish

Carey Kish of Mount Desert Island has been adventuring in the woods and mountains of Maine for, well, a long time. If there’s a trail—be it on dirt, rock, snow, water or pavement—he will find it, explore it, and write about it. Carey is a two-time Appalachian Trail thru-hiker, Registered Maine Guide, author of AMC’s Best Day Hikes Along the Maine Coast, editor of the AMC Maine Mountain Guide (10th ed.), and has written a hiking & camping column for the Portland Press Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram since 2003. Follow his outdoor travels and musings here, and on Facebook/CareyKish. Let Carey know what you think at MaineOutdoors@aol.com.

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Posted: March 26, 2019

The Pacific Crest Trail: Step 1, dream. Step 2, plan.

Written by: Carey Kish

There are 11 trails 100 miles or longer in the United States with the designation of “National Scenic Trail.”

Of these iconic gems, the second longest is the Pacific Crest Trail, which extends 2,650 miles from Mexico to Canada. The Continental Divide Trail gets top honors at 3,100 miles, while the 2,190-mile Appalachian Trail is third.

This hiker plans to tackle the entire Pacific Crest Trail in one continuous push, starting on April 3 at the dusty outpost of Campo on the Mexican border, 50 miles east of San Diego. I’ll journey northward through the wilds of California, Oregon and Washington, and with a lot of sweat and toil and no small amount of good fortune, my plan is to walk across the Canadian boundary into Manning Park, British Columbia, sometime around Sept. 24.

The PCT used to be a fairly lonely endeavor, but just as Bill Bryson’s celebrated book “A Walk in the Woods” helped spark a thru-hiker boom on the AT in the late 1990s, so too has “Wild” by Cheryl Strayed accounted for a recent increase in PCT hikers. Some 50 hikers a day from March through May will head north from the border fence. The pack will thin dramatically, however, because as with the AT, less than 25 percent will ultimately finish the grueling hike.

The PCT has been on my bucket list for a long time. I first heard about the trail in the mid-1970s when I read “The High Adventure of Eric Ryback” in which Ryback, the first person to hike the entire PCT, in 1970, when the trail was largely incomplete, described his journey. Soon after my first AT thru-hike fresh out of high school in 1977, I bought the “Pacific Crest Trail Hike Planning Guide,” but that’s as far as the dream got. Until now.

California hosts 1,700 miles of the PCT, with another 450 miles in Oregon and the final 500 miles in Washington. The trail wends through seven national parks, comprising Sequoia, Kings Canyon, Yosemite, Lassen, Crater Lake, Mt. Rainier and North Cascades, as well as 25 national forests, four national monuments and 48 federal wilderness areas.

The first 700 miles of the PCT are through the deserts of southern California, where waterless stretches of 20-30 miles and 90-100-degree temperatures in the Mojave contrast sharply with snow and ice at 9,000 feet on Mt. San Jacinto. The 500-mile section through the Sierra Nevada is the crux of the hike, with the possibility of deep snow and rivers swollen with snowmelt, plus several dozen high mountain passes, including Forester Pass at 13,153 feet, the PCT’s apex.

In northern California, the PCT swings west around lofty Mt. Shasta to connect with the Cascade Range, which it follows past Oregon’s Crater Lake and Mt. Hood and then Washington’s Mt. Rainier to Canada. The trail’s lowest point is the crossing of the Columbia River at Cascade Locks, 180 feet above sea level.

Perhaps the most stunning PCT statistic is the cumulative elevation gain and loss en route, a mind-boggling 489,418 feet of climbing and 488,411 feet of descent. It’s no wonder why I’m planning a moderate average of 15 miles per day.

With the exception of LEKI trekking poles and MSR Pocket Rocket stove, I’ve almost completely swapped out my gear. The major items include an Osprey Atmos 65 backpack, REI Magma 10 sleeping bag, Sea to Summit Ultralight sleeping pad, Big Agnes Copper Spur UL1 tent and Lowa Renegade boots. My base pack weight is 20 pounds, but that’ll swell with food, water and extra Sierra snow gear.

My hike will be fueled with staples like breakfast bars, pasta and rice, tuna and Spam, jerky, cheese and crackers, chocolate, peanut butter, nuts, dried fruit and granola bars, plus all the restaurant meals and junk food I can stuff into my face at every town stop. I’ll receive 19 resupply boxes mailed from home to remote locations, and will buy groceries at stores the rest of the time. I expect to spend $6,000 on the six-month walk. Oh yeah, trail name? Beerman.

 

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