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Mary Pols

Mary Pols is a staff writer for the Portland Press Herald.

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Posted: February 13, 2018

Transport yourself to summer with fried seafood from Moody’s

Written by: Mary Pols

Inside Moody’s Seafood in Brunswick.
Photos by Mary Pols

I don’t know about your house, but after last week’s storm, my driveway turned into an ice lasagna. Crusty on top, the kind of crust with edges sharp enough to hurt, layered with snow below and then, on the very bottom, a lumpen hockey rink, with the snow serving as sort of a polishing agent to make the ice that much more slippery.

These are the days I gingerly make my way to the car, knees bent to limit the distance of all potential falls (and yes, I have removable ice cleats, and no, I don’t know where they are) and take myself out to lunch. In this season, there are two kind of non home-cooked lunches I crave: big bowls of Asian soups or something, anything, that can evoke summer and remind me why I moved back to Maine.

I headed for Moody’s Seafood, which is based in Cundy’s Harbor but recently opened a wholesale fish store on the Old Bath Road, just past the Bowdoin Pines. From fin fish to oysters, steamers and lobsters, Moody’s is offering a full array of local fish to take home and cook. They’ve also got a full take-out or eat-in menu of classic summer fare. Lobster rolls ($17.99 on the day I was there) as well as crab rolls ($15) and assorted baskets with fried fish, including haddock ($14.99) and clams ($19.99), served with coleslaw and fries.

The haddock basket comes with fries and coleslaw for $14.99.

I ordered a fried haddock basket, fantasizing it would transport me to a warm dock with the sun on my face. Instead, I ended up at the corner booth in the back of a clean, pleasant dining room that’s halfway between lobster shack and a Howard Johnson’s, circa 1974. There’s no view, but the walls are filled with blown-up prints from around the midcoast region, all shot by photographer Benjamin Williamson; it’s a great way to cheer up a modest room.

My food (with tax, $16.19) came in what felt like no more than five minutes. There were six decent-sized pieces of haddock, a pile of fries that seemed too uneven to be out of a bag (but needed some salt) and a small plastic cup of good coleslaw dotted with what looked like poppy seeds. My server had helpfully put two small cups of tartar sauce on the side.

This was well-fried, super fresh haddock: firm, white and mild-flavored. For $14.99, I might have expected more of it, but I couldn’t fault the preparation, and since I was headed back to work instead of a nap, I was ultimately grateful there wasn’t more of it.

Moody’s Seafood

WHERE: 36 Bath Road, Brunswick
INFO: 844-8402,
WHEN: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily

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